How to Fix a Leaky Faucet Without Calling a Plumber

A leaky faucet is one of those problems that’s easy to ignore — until you’re trying to sleep and all you can hear is drip… drip… drip. Then it becomes maddening.

But beyond the annoyance, a leaky faucet wastes a surprising amount of water. A faucet that drips once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons per year. That’s enough water to take over 180 showers. And you’re paying for every drop.

The good news is that most leaky faucets can be fixed by a beginner in about 30 minutes with inexpensive replacement parts. You don’t need plumbing experience, and you don’t need to call a professional.

This guide covers the four most common types of faucets and how to fix each one. Before you start, you need to identify which type of faucet you have — the repair process is different for each.

Before You Start: Identify Your Faucet Type

There are four main types of faucets found in homes:

Compression faucets — Have separate hot and cold handles. When you turn the handle, you feel resistance as you’re physically compressing a washer against a valve seat. Common in older homes.
Cartridge faucets — Can have one or two handles. Move the handle up and down or side to side to control water flow and temperature. The movement is smooth, without the resistance of a compression faucet.
Ball faucets — Single handle that moves over a rounded cap above the spout. Very common in kitchens.
Disc faucets — Single handle over a wide cylinder. The newest type and least likely to leak. If they do leak, the entire disc assembly usually needs to be replaced.

How to Tell Which Type You Have

Two handles that feel stiff when turning = Compression
Two handles that move smoothly = Cartridge
Single handle over a rounded cap = Ball
Single handle over a wide cylinder = Disc

If you’re still not sure, look up your faucet brand and model. This information is often printed on the faucet itself, or you can search the manufacturer’s website.

Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Replacement parts (depends on your faucet type — see below)
White vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning mineral deposits)
Towel or rag
Plumber’s grease (silicone-based, not petroleum-based)

Before you buy replacement parts, take the old parts with you to the hardware store. Faucet parts are not universal, and having the old part ensures you get the right match.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water

This is the most important step. Before you take anything apart, turn off the water supply to the faucet.

Look under the sink for two shutoff valves — one for hot and one for cold. Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. If you don’t have shutoff valves under the sink, you’ll need to turn off the main water supply to the house.

Once the water is off, turn on the faucet to drain any remaining water and release pressure in the lines. Open both the hot and cold sides.

Place a towel in the sink to protect the finish and catch any small parts that might drop.

Step 2: Remove the Handle

The handle covers the internal parts. You need to remove it to access them.

For Handles with a Visible Screw

Look for a screw on the handle. It’s usually on top of the handle or behind a small cover plate. If there’s a cover plate, gently pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

Unscrew the handle screw and lift the handle off.

For Handles with a Set Screw

Some handles have a small set screw on the side near the base. Loosen this screw with an Allen wrench (hex key) and lift the handle off. Don’t remove the set screw entirely — just loosen it enough to release the handle.

For Handles with No Visible Screw

If you don’t see a screw, look for a small cap or button on the front or top of the handle. Pry this off gently with a fingernail or a small flathead screwdriver. The screw is underneath.

Step 3: Fix Based on Your Faucet Type

Now that the handle is off, the repair process depends on your faucet type.

Compression Faucet Repair

Compression faucets leak because the rubber washers inside the handles get worn out over time. Replacing these washers usually fixes the leak.

Which washer to replace:

If the faucet drips from the spout when the handles are off, replace the seat washers at the bottom of the stems
If water leaks from around the handles when the water is on, replace the O-rings on the stems

How to replace the seat washer:

After removing the handle, use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the stem assembly from the faucet body. Turn counterclockwise.
At the bottom of the stem, you’ll see a rubber washer held in place by a small screw. Remove the screw and take off the old washer.
Take the old washer to the hardware store to get an exact replacement. Washers come in different sizes.
Screw the new washer onto the stem.
While the stem is out, look inside the faucet body for the valve seat — the brass ring the washer presses against. If it’s rough or grooved, it can damage the new washer. Clean it with a cloth or, if it’s removable, unscrew it with a seat wrench and replace it.
Apply a small amount of plumber’s grease to the new washer.
Reassemble the stem into the faucet body and tighten with the wrench. Don’t overtighten — you can damage the new washer.
Replace the handle and screw.

How to replace the O-ring:

After removing the stem assembly, look for the O-ring near the top of the stem.
Roll the old O-ring off and replace it with an exact match.
Apply a thin coat of plumber’s grease to the new O-ring.
Reassemble the stem and handle.

Repeat the process for the other handle if needed. If only one side is leaking, you only need to fix that side.

Cartridge Faucet Repair

Cartridge faucets leak when the cartridge inside wears out. The cartridge is a self-contained unit that controls water flow and temperature.

How to replace the cartridge:

After removing the handle, you’ll see the cartridge. It may be held in place by a retaining clip or nut.
Remove the retaining clip with a flathead screwdriver, or unscrew the retaining nut with pliers or a wrench.
Pull the cartridge straight out. If it’s stuck, use a cartridge puller tool (available at hardware stores for about $10) or grip it with pliers and wiggle it gently while pulling.
Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to get an exact replacement. Cartridges are specific to the faucet brand and model.
Before installing the new cartridge, clean the inside of the faucet body with vinegar and a brush to remove mineral deposits.
Apply a thin coat of plumber’s grease to the new cartridge.
Insert the new cartridge, making sure it’s oriented correctly. Most cartridges have a tab or notch that only allows them to fit one way.
Replace the retaining clip or nut.
Reassemble the handle.

For two-handle cartridge faucets, determine which cartridge is leaking by turning off the hot and cold shutoff valves one at a time. If the leak stops when you turn off the cold valve, the cold cartridge needs replacing. If it stops when you turn off the hot valve, replace the hot cartridge.

Ball Faucet Repair

Ball faucets have several parts that can wear out and cause leaks: O-rings, springs, and valve seats. The most common repair is replacing these parts using a kit.

How to repair a ball faucet:

After removing the handle, you’ll see a cap with a rounded top (the cam) and a ball underneath.
Use an adjustable wrench to remove the cap by turning it counterclockwise.
Lift out the cam and the ball.
Inside the faucet body, you’ll see two small rubber valve seats and springs. Remove them with a small Allen wrench or needle-nose pliers.
Buy a replacement kit for your specific faucet brand. These kits include new valve seats, springs, O-rings, and sometimes a new ball and cam. They cost about $10 to $20.
Install the new springs and valve seats. Each spring goes into a hole in the faucet body, with the rubber valve seat on top.
Check the O-rings on the spout. If the faucet was leaking at the base of the spout, these O-rings need replacing. Pry the old ones off and roll the new ones on. Apply plumber’s grease.
Drop the ball back in place, oriented so the pin on the side fits into the slot in the faucet body.
Place the cam on top of the ball with the key on the cam aligned with the slot in the faucet body.
Thread the cap back on and tighten with the wrench. Don’t overtighten.
Reassemble the handle.

Disc Faucet Repair

Disc faucets are the least likely to leak, but when they do, the repair is straightforward. The ceramic discs inside the cartridge rarely fail — most leaks are caused by sediment buildup.

How to repair a disc faucet:

After removing the handle, unscrew the disc cylinder from the faucet body.
Lift out the three ceramic discs. Note their order and orientation so you can put them back correctly.
Clean the discs with white vinegar and a soft brush to remove any mineral deposits or sediment. Inspect them for cracks or damage.
If the discs are cracked or damaged, you need to replace the entire disc assembly. Take the old one to the hardware store to find a match.
Clean the inside of the cylinder with vinegar and a brush.
Reassemble the discs in the correct order and orientation.
Screw the cylinder back into the faucet body.
Reassemble the handle.

If cleaning the discs doesn’t fix the leak, replace the entire disc cartridge.

Step 4: Turn the Water Back On and Test

After reassembling the faucet:

Make sure the faucet is in the off position.
Turn the water supply valves back on slowly.
Turn on the faucet and let it run for about 30 seconds to flush out any air or debris.
Turn the faucet off and check for leaks.
Check under the sink for any leaks at the connections.

If the faucet still leaks, the most common reasons are:

The wrong replacement part was used
A part was installed incorrectly
The valve seat is damaged and needs to be replaced
Mineral deposits weren’t fully cleaned from the faucet body

Take it apart again and double-check each step. If you’re still having trouble, the faucet body itself may be damaged and need to be replaced entirely.

How Much Does It Cost to Fix a Leaky Faucet Yourself?

Expense	Cost
Washer kit	$2 – $5
Cartridge	$10 – $30
Ball faucet repair kit	$10 – $20
Disc cartridge	$15 – $35
Plumber’s grease	$5 – $8
Total	$5 – $40

Compare this to calling a plumber, which typically costs $150 to $350 for a faucet repair. Doing it yourself saves a significant amount of money.

When to Replace the Faucet Instead of Repairing It

Sometimes it makes more sense to replace the entire faucet:

The faucet is very old and replacement parts are hard to find
The faucet body is cracked or corroded
You’ve replaced parts and it still leaks
The finish is badly deteriorated
You want to update the look of your kitchen or bathroom

A basic new faucet costs $30 to $80 and can be installed with the same tools used for repairs. If you’re already taking the old one apart, putting a new one in isn’t much more work.

Preventing Future Leaks

A few habits extend the life of your faucet:

Don’t overtighten handles — Forcing the handle closed damages washers and cartridges over time. Turn it just until the water stops.
Clean aerators regularly — Unscrew the aerator (the small screen at the tip of the spout) and soak it in vinegar to remove mineral deposits. A clogged aerator causes pressure buildup.
Fix leaks promptly — A small leak wears out parts faster. The constant dripping erodes the valve seat, making the leak worse and the repair harder.
Use plumber’s grease on replacement parts — This helps seals last longer and makes future repairs easier.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my faucet leak only when it’s turned on?

If water leaks from around the handle when the faucet is on, the O-ring on the stem needs to be replaced. This is different from a faucet that drips from the spout when it’s off — that’s usually a washer or cartridge issue.

Can a leaky faucet cause water damage?

Yes, if the leak is under the sink or inside the wall. A slow drip under the sink can damage the cabinet and floor over time. A leak inside the wall can cause mold and structural damage. Even a drip from the spout can cause mineral stains in the sink over time.

How long does it take to fix a leaky faucet?

For a beginner, expect 30 to 60 minutes for the first repair. Once you’ve done it, future repairs take about 15 to 20 minutes. The most time-consuming part is usually getting the old parts out if they’re stuck or corroded.

What if I can’t get the handle off?

Corroded or stuck handles are common, especially in bathrooms with hard water. Try spraying the handle base with white vinegar and letting it sit for 15 minutes to dissolve mineral deposits. If it’s still stuck, a handle puller tool (about $10 at hardware stores) can remove it without damage.

Should I turn off the main water supply if I can’t find the shutoff valves under the sink?

Yes. It’s better to turn off the main supply than to risk a flood. If your sink doesn’t have individual shutoff valves, consider having them installed. They make any future plumbing work much easier and allow you to isolate the sink without shutting off water to the entire house.