How to Unclog Any Drain in Your House

A clogged drain is one of those problems that starts small and gets worse slowly enough that you keep putting off dealing with it. The sink takes a little longer to empty. Then a lot longer. Then you’re standing in two inches of water every time you shower. Finally, the water stops going down altogether, and you have a problem you can’t ignore.

I’ve dealt with more clogged drains than I care to admit. For years, my go-to solution was to dump a bottle of chemical drain cleaner down the drain and hope for the best. Sometimes it worked. Sometimes it didn’t. And I eventually learned that those harsh chemicals were damaging my pipes and polluting the water supply.

The truth is, most clogged drains can be cleared without chemicals using simple tools and methods that are safer for your pipes, your health, and the environment. This guide covers the most effective methods for unclogging every drain in your house, from the kitchen sink to the bathtub to the toilet.

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Before You Start

Identify the Drain

Different drains have different types of clogs and require different approaches. Before you start, know which drain you’re dealing with:

Is It One Drain or Multiple?

If only one drain is clogged, the clog is probably in that drain’s trap or branch line. If multiple drains are clogged — especially if they’re on the same floor — the clog may be in the main drain line. Main line clogs are more serious and may require a professional.

If water backs up in one fixture when you use another (for example, water comes up in the bathtub when you flush the toilet), that’s a sign of a main line clog. Call a plumber.

Gather Your Tools

You may not need all of these, but it’s good to have them on hand:

• Cup plunger (for sinks and tubs)
• Flange plunger (for toilets)
• Wire coat hanger
• Drain snake (also called a hand auger)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Bucket and towel
• Baking soda and white vinegar
• Boiling water
• Rubber gloves

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Method 1: Boiling Water (Easiest)

This is the simplest method and should always be the first thing you try. It works best on clogs caused by grease, soap, and other soft buildup.

How to Do It

1. Boil a kettle or large pot of water.
2. Pour the boiling water directly down the drain in a steady stream.
3. Wait a few minutes and see if the water drains.
4. If the drain is still slow, repeat. You may need to do this two or three times.

When It Works

• Kitchen sinks clogged with grease
• Bathroom sinks and tubs clogged with soap
• Slow drains that aren’t fully blocked

When It Doesn’t Work

• Clogs caused by hair
• Clogs caused by foreign objects
• Completely blocked drains (water has nowhere to go)
• Plastic pipes (boiling water can damage some plastic pipes — use hot tap water instead, which is about 120°F and won’t damage pipes)

Caution: Don’t pour boiling water into a porcelain sink or toilet — the sudden temperature change can crack the porcelain. Use hot tap water instead.

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Method 2: Baking Soda and Vinegar

This is the classic natural drain cleaning method. The chemical reaction between baking soda and vinegar creates fizzing and bubbling that can help break up soft clogs.

How to Do It

1. Remove any standing water from the sink or tub. Use a cup or bucket to bail it out.
2. Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain. Make sure it goes down the drain, not just sits on top.
3. Pour 1/2 cup of white vinegar down the drain. You’ll hear fizzing and see bubbles — that’s the reaction working.
4. Quickly cover the drain with a plug or a wet cloth. This forces the fizzing down into the pipe instead of up out of the drain.
5. Let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes.
6. Pour a kettle of boiling water (or hot tap water for plastic pipes) down the drain to flush everything out.

When It Works

• Soft clogs caused by grease, soap, and organic buildup
• Slow drains
• Regular maintenance to prevent clogs

When It Doesn’t Work

• Hard clogs caused by hair
• Clogs caused by foreign objects
• Severe blockages

This method is more effective as a preventative measure than as a cure for a serious clog. If you use it monthly, it helps prevent buildup that leads to clogs.

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Method 3: Plunger

A plunger is one of the most effective tools for clearing clogs, and most people don’t use it correctly. The key is creating a good seal and using the right technique.

Choose the Right Plunger

• Cup plunger (flat bottom): For sinks, bathtubs, and showers
• Flange plunger (has a soft rubber flap that folds out): For toilets

How to Plunge a Sink or Tub

1. Remove the stopper or strainer from the drain. For pop-up stoppers, you may need to unscrew the pivot rod under the sink to remove the stopper completely.
2. Add enough water to cover the cup of the plunger. You need water to create suction — air doesn’t work.
3. Block any overflow openings. For bathroom sinks, stuff a wet rag into the overflow hole near the top of the sink. For bathtubs, cover the overflow plate with a wet rag or tape. If you don’t block these openings, the pressure will escape through them instead of forcing the clog down.
4. Place the plunger over the drain so it covers the opening completely.
5. Push down firmly to create a seal, then pull up quickly. The pulling motion is what dislodges the clog — it’s the suction, not the pressure, that does the work.
6. Repeat 15 to 20 times, maintaining the seal the whole time.
7. Check if the water drains. If it does, run hot water for a minute to flush the drain.
8. If it doesn’t drain, try again. Sometimes it takes several rounds of plunging.

How to Plunge a Toilet

1. Make sure there’s enough water in the bowl to cover the plunger cup. If there’s too much water, bail some out into a bucket. If there’s not enough, add some from the tank or a bucket.
2. Insert the plunger into the bowl at an angle so the cup fills with water (not air).
3. Place the plunger over the drain opening at the bottom of the bowl.
4. Push down gently to create a seal, then pull up firmly. Again, the suction is what dislodges the clog.
5. Repeat 15 to 20 times.
6. If the water drains, flush the toilet to make sure the clog is completely cleared.

Tip for stubborn toilet clogs: Pour a bucket of hot (not boiling) water into the bowl from about waist height. The force of the water can help break up the clog. Don’t use boiling water — it can crack the toilet.

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Method 4: Wire Hanger or Drain Claw

For clogs caused by hair (most common in bathroom sinks, bathtubs, and showers), a wire hanger or drain claw is often the most effective tool.

How to Use a Wire Hanger

1. Straighten a wire coat hanger, leaving a small hook at one end.
2. Insert the hooked end into the drain.
3. Push the wire down until you feel resistance — that’s the clog.
4. Twist the wire and pull it up. The hook will grab the hair and gunk.
5. Repeat several times, pulling out as much hair and debris as possible.
6. Run hot water to flush the drain.

How to Use a Drain Claw

A drain claw (also called a zip-it tool) is a flexible plastic strip with barbs that grab hair. They cost about $3 at hardware stores and are more effective than a wire hanger.

1. Insert the drain claw into the drain.
2. Push it down until you feel resistance.
3. Pull it up slowly. The barbs will grab hair and debris.
4. Repeat several times.
5. Run hot water to flush the drain.

Gross warning: You will pull out some nasty stuff. Have a trash bag nearby and wear rubber gloves.

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Method 5: Remove and Clean the P-Trap

The P-trap is the curved section of pipe under a sink. It’s designed to hold a small amount of water that prevents sewer gases from coming up the drain. It’s also where most clogs occur because it’s the lowest point in the drain line.

If the clog is in the P-trap, removing and cleaning it is the most effective solution.

How to Remove the P-Trap

1. Place a bucket and towel under the P-trap to catch water.
2. Loosen the slip nuts on both ends of the P-trap. Use your hands if possible — slip nuts are usually hand-tight. If they’re too tight, use pliers, but be gentle so you don’t crush the nuts.
3. Pull the P-trap down and away from the drain pipes. Water will pour out — that’s what the bucket is for.
4. Look inside the trap. You’ll probably see a wad of hair, grease, and gunk.
5. Clean the trap. Use an old toothbrush or a bottle brush to scrub out any debris. Rinse it in another sink or outside.
6. Check the drain pipes. Look into the pipes coming from the sink and going into the wall. If there’s a clog in either pipe, use a wire hanger or snake to clear it.
7. Reinstall the P-trap. Slide it back into place and tighten the slip nuts by hand. Don’t overtighten — just snug.
8. Run water and check for leaks.

Caution: If the P-trap is made of chrome or brass, be gentle when removing it. Old metal traps can be corroded and may break. If it breaks, you’ll need to replace it (a new P-trap costs about $5 to $15).

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Method 6: Use a Drain Snake

A drain snake (also called a hand auger) is a flexible cable that you feed into the drain to break up or retrieve clogs. It’s the most effective tool for clogs that are beyond the P-trap.

How to Snake a Drain

1. Remove the P-trap (see above) if possible. Snaking through the open pipe is more effective than snaking through the drain opening.
2. If you can’t remove the P-trap, remove the stopper or strainer from the drain.
3. Feed the snake into the drain or pipe.
4. Turn the handle clockwise as you push the snake forward. The rotation helps the snake navigate bends in the pipe.
5. When you feel resistance, you’ve reached the clog. Keep turning the handle and pushing gently. The snake will either break up the clog or grab onto it.
6. If the snake grabs the clog, pull it out slowly. If it breaks up the clog, continue feeding the snake a bit further to make sure you’ve cleared the whole blockage.
7. Pull the snake out and clean it off.
8. Reassemble the P-trap and run hot water to flush the drain.

Tips for Snaking

• Don’t force the snake. If it won’t go past a bend, pull it back a little and try again with more rotation.
• Wear gloves. The snake and the gunk on it are gross.
• Have a bucket ready. When you pull the snake out, it will be covered in nasty water.
• Clean the snake after use. Wipe it with a rag and spray it with a disinfectant before storing.

Toilet Auger

For toilets, use a toilet auger (also called a closet auger) instead of a regular drain snake. A toilet auger has a shorter, stiffer cable with a curved end that’s designed to navigate the trap in the toilet bowl.

1. Insert the auger into the toilet bowl drain.
2. Crank the handle clockwise while pushing the cable into the drain.
3. When you feel resistance, keep cranking to break up or hook the clog.
4. Pull the cable out. If you’ve hooked the clog, dispose of it in the trash.
5. Flush the toilet to test.

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Method 7: Clean the Overflow Plate (Bathtub)

If your bathtub is draining slowly and the methods above haven’t worked, the clog might be in the overflow plate assembly.

How to Clean the Overflow Plate

1. Remove the two screws holding the overflow plate to the tub.
2. Pull the overflow plate out. It’s connected to a linkage that goes down to the drain stopper.
3. Remove any hair or debris from the linkage and the overflow opening.
4. Feed a wire hanger or small snake down the overflow opening to clear any clogs in the pipe.
5. Reinstall the overflow plate and test the drain.

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What Not to Do

Don’t Use Chemical Drain Cleaners

Chemical drain cleaners (like Drano, Liquid Plumr, etc.) are bad for several reasons:

• They damage pipes. The harsh chemicals can corrode metal pipes and soften plastic pipes, leading to leaks.
• They’re dangerous. The chemicals can cause severe burns to your skin and eyes. If they splash back up from the drain, you can be injured.
• They make the clog worse. If the chemical cleaner doesn’t clear the clog, you now have a sink full of toxic, corrosive water that you have to deal with.
• They’re bad for the environment. The chemicals end up in the water supply.
• They can interfere with professional help. If you end up needing a plumber, the chemical residue in the drain can be dangerous for the plumber to work with.

If you’ve already used a chemical cleaner and it didn’t work, tell the plumber before they start working. They need to know what chemicals are in the drain so they can protect themselves.

Don’t Mix Chemicals

Never mix different drain cleaning products. The combination can produce toxic gases or even explosions. If one product doesn’t work, don’t try another one — use a mechanical method instead.

Don’t Use a Plunger After Chemicals

If you’ve poured chemical drain cleaner into the drain, don’t use a plunger. The plunger can splash the chemicals back up onto you.

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How to Prevent Clogged Drains

Prevention is easier than dealing with a clog.

In the Kitchen

• Don’t pour grease down the drain. Let it cool and solidify, then scrape it into the trash.
• Use a sink strainer. A mesh strainer catches food scraps before they go down the drain. Empty it into the trash after each use.
• Run hot water after each use. A quick blast of hot water after washing dishes helps flush grease and soap through the pipes.
• Don’t put coffee grounds, eggshells, or pasta down the drain. These are common causes of kitchen clogs.

In the Bathroom

• Use a drain cover or strainer. These catch hair before it goes down the drain. They cost about $3 and save a lot of hassle.
• Brush your hair before showering. This removes loose hair before it has a chance to go down the drain.
• Don’t flush anything down the toilet except toilet paper and waste. No wipes (even “flushable” ones), no paper towels, no feminine products, no cotton balls, no dental floss. These are the most common cause of toilet clogs.
• Run hot water down the drain weekly. This helps dissolve soap and grease buildup.

Monthly Maintenance

Once a month, do a preventative cleaning:

1. Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain.
2. Follow with 1/2 cup of white vinegar.
3. Cover the drain and let it sit for 15 minutes.
4. Flush with boiling water (or hot tap water for plastic pipes).

This helps prevent buildup that leads to clogs.

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When to Call a Plumber

Most clogged drains can be fixed with the methods above. Call a plumber if:

• Multiple drains are clogged — This indicates a main line blockage.
• Water backs up in one fixture when you use another — This also indicates a main line problem.
• You’ve tried all the methods above and the drain is still clogged — The clog may be too far down the line for a hand snake to reach.
• The clog keeps coming back — Recurring clogs indicate a deeper problem, like tree roots in the sewer line or a damaged pipe.
• You smell sewage — This indicates a serious problem with the sewer line.
• There’s water leaking from under the sink or from the walls — This indicates a pipe leak, not just a clog.

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How Much Does It Cost to Unclog a Drain?

Doing it yourself saves a significant amount of money, especially for simple clogs. The tools pay for themselves the first time you use them instead of calling a plumber.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my drain keep clogging?

Recurring clogs usually have an underlying cause: a buildup of grease or soap that’s never fully cleared, tree roots growing into the sewer line, a pipe that’s damaged or misaligned, or a venting problem that prevents proper drainage. If a drain clogs more than once every few months, have a plumber inspect the line with a camera.

Are “flushable” wipes really flushable?

No. They don’t break down in water the way toilet paper does. They’re one of the most common causes of toilet clogs and sewer line blockages. Put them in the trash, not the toilet.

Can I use a plunger on a double sink?

Yes, but you need to block the other drain. Have someone hold a plunger or a wet rag over the second drain while you plunge the clogged one. This creates the pressure needed to dislodge the clog.

Why does my bathtub drain gurgle?

Gurgling indicates a venting problem. The drain vent allows air to enter the plumbing system so water can flow freely. If the vent is blocked, air gets pulled through the P-trap, creating the gurgling sound. This can also cause slow drainage and sewer odors. A plumber can clear the vent.

How do I know if the clog is in the P-trap or further down the line?

If the clog is in the P-trap, you can usually clear it by removing and cleaning the trap. If the clog is further down the line, the P-trap will be clear but the drain will still be slow or blocked. You’ll need a snake to reach clogs beyond the P-trap.